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95' ZRT 800 will not quit running

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95' ZRT 800 will not quit running

Postby Tmoney » January 25th, 2005, 3:27 pm

Any help out there?

Traced a 4-wire bundel from the CDI box that had some fraying. Cut the wires, cleaned them back, soldered them together, and added shrink wrap to keep conections clean. This looks very good.

The key won't shut off the machine, the kill switch or teather won't either? Here's the real bite - some times they do and not just when the engine is cold. It almost sounds like the machine goes down to one cylinder or something. It's real close to shutting off but won't go all the way? Disconnected the wiring that appeared to be grounds just above the pull start rope where it enter the re-coil housing. Cleaned them off and re-set them but it doesn't seem to help? -

Anyone out there have any ideas?

Thanks-
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95' ZRT 800 will not quit running

Postby KneeDeepInSnow » January 25th, 2005, 3:37 pm

get a multi meter and start checkign for resistance in broken wires.........
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95' ZRT 800 will not quit running

Postby bkopp85 » January 25th, 2005, 4:06 pm

belive it or not my neighbors have a ski doo blizzard 5500 and you can rip the plug wires off it and it will continue to run. I'm not to sure how it can do this but the only thing i can figure and hot spots and the combustion chamber caused by excessive carbon in there. I don't know if thats whats wrong with yours or not but I would try carb cleaner and shoot it in small amount with the motor runniong. this will break down the carbon. or if that doesn't work crack it open and clean it. but the only way i can figure it can run with out plug wires like his did was hotspots in the combustion chamber. it was neat to see it run with no plug wires. it didn't even misfire or nothing idled just as smooth as when the wires were connected. The only way to kill that machine is prime the heck out of it
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95' ZRT 800 will not quit running

Postby Tmoney » January 25th, 2005, 4:26 pm

Thanks for trying to help Bkopp85 regrding my 95 ZRT but I've pulled the carps out, acid washed all components and put them back together. It does sound like your friend has a unique situation, but don't think that it relates to my sled. Again, thanks anyway and if you hear anything about a fix / bug similar to mine don't hesitate to write back. - Take care. - (We finally got snow and I'll keep pulling the coil wires to stop before I put the machine up and quit riding)
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95' ZRT 800 will not quit running

Postby rabeb25 » January 25th, 2005, 7:56 pm

Why not just choke it to kill it?
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95' ZRT 800 will not quit running

Postby mysunnshine » January 26th, 2005, 12:26 am

The "main" ground that goes to all of the kill switches is bad. When it cuts to one cylinder, the connection is not good enough to completely ground the CDI to kill the motor....

Sunshine
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95' ZRT 800 will not quit running

Postby ZRT7c » January 26th, 2005, 5:48 am

take the bunch of connectors apart under the coolant bottle blow them out with airhose put grease in them put them back together and tape them i believe there is three wires disconnect all of them do that and it should shut down had that with mine a couple weeks ago i taped them and it never happened again
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95' ZRT 800 will not quit running

Postby jpiler » January 26th, 2005, 7:44 am

My sunshine is on the right track.There is a single wire with but not included in the main plug to the motor.It has a single quick connect.This is the wire your looking for to get your key and kill switch to operate.
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95' ZRT 800 will not quit running

Postby nitrusman » February 1st, 2005, 1:44 am

I have a 95 and mine was doing the same thing, I would choke it to kill it. Eventually had to change stator plate and the problem went away. dont no but maybe?
Hope this helps.
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95' ZRT 800 will not quit running

Postby love2sled » February 15th, 2005, 10:46 am

Hi, I've had that problem too, and this was the fix. First look under the coolant res. and you will find three wire plugs. One looks like a four wire trailer plug (the square kind) and the other two are smaller weather-sealed CDI plugs (one four wire and one two wire). Clean these plugs very carefully to remove all moisture and dried crud, they build up anti-freeze crystals and other stuff that is conductive when warm and a little wet.I use a plastic safe contact cleaner and compressed air. When clean put on a little dielectric grease on the plugs and reassemble. Don't use just any grease, some are conductive. I use "Permatex Dielectric Tune-Up Grease" I get at our local NAPA store. Then put a new overflow hose on the anti-freeze tank and route it into the foot well, away from the engine and it's wiring(use plenty of wire ties to keep it out of moving parts or hot brakes). If this doesn't work your CDI box may be bad. This engine uses a "ground is on" type of ignition system. The CDIs sometimes fail "on", very weird, but I have one in my box as a back-up right now. If it runs normally untill you turn off the key, then the switches and wiring are probably OK. It's important to get a wiring diagram and the electical specs and check out the coils and wiring harness before you put in a new box, I've seen a few new boxes get blown up by bad coils and intermitant shorts in the wiring harness. Good Luck
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