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Outlaw 600 - Progress Thread - HRE

Outlaw 600 - Progress Thread - HRE

Postby WAVEY DOG #26 OSRF » November 11th, 2011, 7:57 am

Howard: your starting to sound like Corey Ewing (argumentative!) Dave
DAVID RIEMENSCHNEIDER
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Outlaw 600 - Progress Thread - HRE

Postby old motorman » November 11th, 2011, 8:40 am

Have you ever had the non-toxic anti-freeze tested? I t will take two spoons instead on one to kill you dog.
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Outlaw 600 - Progress Thread - HRE

Postby PDRacing » November 12th, 2011, 2:05 pm

[quote=lugsharvey].

On a related subject, I'm in Mexico for a week with a sponsor, we went out to ride some sea doos in the ocean the other day, and while they were taking my money and fitting the life jackets they were bringing us the drink of our choice.....amazing how when there aren't so many attorneys around things go smoothly when you just leave us the hell alone.

Tony[/quote]

Hey Tony, if you have spent any time in Mexico or done any business there, you would know, they don't actually get left alone, it's all done on Kick backs, Health Board, Cops, politicians, etc. to look the other way. Just a way of life there. Not saying it's a bad thing just saying.

AnyWay,

On a constructive Note, John,

I noticed some guys said they were sending their frames out to be powder coated. Just a note in most race associations with Roll caged tubed vehicles, any welded joint is not allowed to be powder coated. The weld has to be 1/2" taped off before the process, then that area spray painted in afterwards.

The problem with powder coat is the weld can crack, but you can't see it.
I have found out the hard way myself since I love powder coating stuff and had a tube break right off without warning.

Just thought I would mention it.
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Outlaw 600 - Progress Thread - HRE

Postby roadhouseracer » November 13th, 2011, 1:10 am

Tony quick question- - what is the address of the show in NY this weekend coming.. we may have the sled ready and would like to attend if poss. It will be very last minute and we need to know, when it needs to be there drop off pick up, map quest, is there n e fees. Do u know of nearest hotel.. thank you for all your help ron
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Outlaw 600 - Progress Thread - HRE

Postby jhooper/HRE » November 13th, 2011, 2:06 am

I just finished another round of dyno testing with all three brands and the production Jaws Outlaw pipes. Jaws did a great job designing these pipes, all 3 engines are between 130 and 132hp when modified similarly and tuned to the same bsfc @ 9000rpm.
Torque and hp curves are so close it looks like just 1 engine when you graph all 3.
These pipes are exactly what I wanted, he could have easily made seperate pipe designs for each engine that could make around 150hp but would have been much harder to tune around and tech.
These pipes are quite forgiving on jetting, timing, compression and back pressure. Naturally the better tuners will find small advantages but it will be very difficult to make over 135hp and keep it alive.
The pipes come with a 32mm id x 30mm long tailpipe which is certainly too big for any of these engines, I ended with 29 - 30mm ID on all 3 engines and around 14 degrees of timing @9000 rpm. I used a short thin walled tailpipe w/silencer that slid inside of the PERMANENT 32tailpipe and just welded a collar onto it so it wouldn't slide in too far then welded on spring hooks and secured with 2 springs each.
All testing was done with the stock flatslides. The Polaris has 38mm and the others have 40mm so for now the Polaris guys will be allowed to bore their carbs to 40mm to equalize, it was only about 1hp difference anyway.
All 3 engines were built with 15-1 heads with safe squish clearances between .065 and .070. I found that more compression and tighter squish just ran hotter, no more power.
The Polaris is the only one that runs fine with the completely stock ignition, I just had to advance the mag plate to the max {around 5 degrees} because the ignition retards a lot at 9000rpm.
I had to have the Rotax and Arctic reprogrammed, they have rev limiters. John Hooper
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Outlaw 600 - Progress Thread - HRE

Postby Proline Performance » November 14th, 2011, 11:02 am

delete
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Outlaw 600 - Progress Thread - HRE

Postby jhooper/HRE » November 15th, 2011, 2:18 am

Tips on engine mounting:
Because of the straight pipes and spec exh flanges that you are NOT allowed to alter it is critical to get the engine in exactly the correct position.
The Arctic engine package fits pretty good on just a flat plate but both the Skidoo and Polaris engines will need to be tilted forward around 5 to 8 degrees for proper exhaust positioning.
The Polaris has the shortest crankshaft end so you really need to position the engine so the side of the cylinder is about touching the flat side plate or you can't get the clutches lined up. The Skidoo has a little longer crank end and the Arctic is plenty long.
We have found that the Polaris and Skidoo fit best with a short crank to jackshaft center distance of 10.5 inches but the Arctic needs 12.2 inches or more because of the carb location.
Another important thing about the Arctic engine is you cannot remove the thermostat unless you block the bypass hole inside the block, it won't circulate, it will melt.
You cannot simply take the oil injection off the Arctic or the Polaris, you must drill the case to lube the water pump gear.
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Outlaw 600 - Progress Thread - HRE

Postby proton » November 15th, 2011, 11:06 am

You can remove the oil injection on the Polaris(the race engines come that way)however you will need to put a plate over the space where the pump was,...looking down on the case from above with the cylinders removed you will see a detent in the casting over top where the bearing is nearest the water pump camber, that is where you want to drill the hole as the bearing journal already has a slot machined in it...dont drill on the other side as you could damage the labyrinth seal
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Outlaw 600 - Progress Thread - HRE

Postby Arcticfan » November 15th, 2011, 12:33 pm

[quote=jhooper/HRE]Tips on engine mounting:
Because of the straight pipes and spec exh flanges that you are NOT allowed to alter it is critical to get the engine in exactly the correct position.
The Arctic engine package fits pretty good on just a flat plate but both the Skidoo and Polaris engines will need to be tilted forward around 5 to 8 degrees for proper exhaust positioning.
The Polaris has the shortest crankshaft end so you really need to position the engine so the side of the cylinder is about touching the flat side plate or you can't get the clutches lined up. The Skidoo has a little longer crank end and the Arctic is plenty long.
We have found that the Polaris and Skidoo fit best with a short crank to jackshaft center distance of 10.5 inches but the Arctic needs 12.2 inches or more because of the carb location.
Another important thing about the Arctic engine is you cannot remove the thermostat unless you block the bypass hole inside the block, it won't circulate, it will melt.
You cannot simply take the oil injection off the Arctic or the Polaris, you must drill the case to lube the water pump gear.
John H.[/quote]

John are you talking about the hole directly behind the thermostat?
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Outlaw 600 - Progress Thread - HRE

Postby snowman39 » November 15th, 2011, 3:24 pm

Roll call

How many Outlaw 600 sleds will be in Beausejour in a couple of weeks, look forward to seeing this class

Guy
[b]Guy Budel[/b]
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