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Stud length vs. track height ??

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Stud length vs. track height ??

Postby little sledhead » April 25th, 2003, 3:45 pm

I just bought a new/used sled with studs installed. Can someone please tell me why these studboy 1.175/1.18 studs, installed on a .88 track , stick up .500 (1/2") above track lug ? My math isn't great but shouldn't they be .300" which is well within the recommended .250" to .375". The studs actually measure 1.43" but subtract .250" for the track thickness makes them 1.18" --right? If someone can enlighten me on this I'd be grateful. thanx

*This Message was edited on 25-Apr-03 08:47 PM by little sledhead*
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04 Suzuki Z400 - Elkas, Yoshi, HID's, Sand Stars
04 Suzuki Z 250
01 Honda 400EX
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06 Polaris Predator 90
04 Kazuma 50
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Stud length vs. track height ??

Postby RATMOTOR » April 25th, 2003, 11:48 pm

If the track is new, use 1.075" max. length carbide tip studs. If it's a well worn track, use 1.00". Any longer and they fold over at the expense of the track.
Oil would be cheaper if the greenies stopped using it.
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Stud length vs. track height ??

Postby Straightliner » April 26th, 2003, 12:53 am

You should be OK. If you have enough studs in track. The more studs less chance for pull threw as long you have enough power. Right now I have a 2003 600 X Edge studded 1/2" over lug 168 gold diggers wicked hole shot and brakeing. Might trail port it and go with 192 studs . Allot to do is the way you ride. You sort of have to favor it in different conditions like lack of snow, going up hills, crossing roads, trying not to spin to much. I like to see around 1/4" over lug if you have proper clearance. If you run anything less then 1/4" above lug you are wasting your money my opinion.

*This Message was edited on 26-Apr-03 05:58 AM by Straightliner*
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Stud length vs. track height ??

Postby little sledhead » April 26th, 2003, 2:13 am

There's 96 in it now. but the guy gave me 48 extras so I could go to 144. I,m not sure if I want to do this or just pull them out and go smaller. It's a formula Z 600.
In the stable:

04 Suzuki Z400 - Elkas, Yoshi, HID's, Sand Stars
04 Suzuki Z 250
01 Honda 400EX
06 Polaris Trail Boss 330
06 Polaris Predator 90
04 Kazuma 50
little sledhead
Member
 
Posts: 17
Joined: February 23rd, 2003, 2:50 pm
Location: phoenix, AZ

Stud length vs. track height ??

Postby Straightliner » April 26th, 2003, 3:55 am

If i were you. I would go with what ever gives you peace of mind. If your studs are in good shape you might be-able to sell them. I am thinking with 96 studs you are just studded down the middle trail set-up. It might be cheaper to put the right size in the end. I was just wondering are these studs 7mm or 5/16. If 7mm i would pull them out for sure. The head is to small for being that long easy pull threw.
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Stud length vs. track height ??

Postby little sledhead » April 30th, 2003, 4:29 am

Although i've made up my mind on what i'm going to do, i'd still like to understand the sizing ( what exactly they measure).
In the stable:

04 Suzuki Z400 - Elkas, Yoshi, HID's, Sand Stars
04 Suzuki Z 250
01 Honda 400EX
06 Polaris Trail Boss 330
06 Polaris Predator 90
04 Kazuma 50
little sledhead
Member
 
Posts: 17
Joined: February 23rd, 2003, 2:50 pm
Location: phoenix, AZ

Stud length vs. track height ??

Postby ZRT800 » May 3rd, 2003, 2:04 pm

Here's something that was posted on the trash side last Fall by, "Extreme XC" (Buddy). I thought it was very informative & saved it for further reference. Like it or not, here you go....

Studs by; Buddy P. (Extreme XC on Snowmobilenews.com)

Since all the stud questions and opinions have come up I decided to voice mine....
First off the reason for studding is going to depend on how you ride obviously. If you do mostly deep power, you don't need studs. For trail riders, lake riders and anyone that does hard pack riding then studding is a good thing to do. Now when chosing studs in my opinion too many people are brainwashed into thinking they have to have 168, 192 or even up to 240 studs. The higher HP sled owners are a big part of this. They buy a XCR or T-cat etc., put in 240 studs and wonder why that make snowcones when racing someone off the line.
From my experience no stock or close to stock sled needs over 144 studs. Any more and you are only hurting your performance and spending more $$$ than needed. With today's big twins I have had more than enough luck with 96 studs. Main key here is to use the angled backer plates (the ones that rest against your lugs). These keep the studs from flexing in your track and improve traction. Woody's also make a new backer they call a "Angled double digger" that is setup very well for aggresive riding and racing.
Stud length is another factor. If you only run studs 1/8" past your lugs sure you'll never have any tear out. You won't have squat for traction either. It is good to have 5/16"-7/16" dimension between stud tip and lug. The other problem with too short of studs is that after one swipe across the ice they fall back into their grooves when the track comes back around and the lugs "bottom out" on the ice causing you to spin and make snowcones.
Now when choosing stud lengths be careful. Each manufacturer measures their studs differently. For example Extreme Max 1.4" studs measure 1.6" overall while Woody's 1.175" studs measure 1.575" overall. So in this case the Extreme 1.4" and Woody's 1.175" studs are essentially the same length. Of course trail riders will want carbide studs but if you are on the Lakes 90% of the time you may want to consider 45 degree or even 30 degree steel push thru's. They will give you 3 times the hook up that carbide studs will. Just don't spin your track when crossing rodes. Also there is really no reason at all to stud the outer belts of the track. Keep all 96 on the inside and don't place a stud any closer than 1" to the track windows.
Some reasons for stud pull throughs is due to using to long of stud WITHOUT an angled backer. Also if they are not tightened down enough or tightened too much. Some studs come with a lip on the shaft just under the head that allow the stud to be tightened down perfecly and butt against the backer. The studs that don't have this need to be tightened to around 25-28 ft/lbs.
Stud installation. Those of you that use a drill bit and drill holes are causing a possible tear out due to tearing the cords of the track. The best way to make the stud holes is to buy a stud hole cutting tool that you use on a drill. Almost all stud manufacturers offer these. After the holes are drilled, take a tourch and heat up a rod or screwdriver tip that is slightly smaller dia that the stud hole and stick it through the holes. This will burn the cords back together and help seal the hole.

Who said Cats can't swim?!?
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