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1993 Formula Plus engine poblem

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1993 Formula Plus engine poblem

Postby Andy027 » January 11th, 2004, 2:10 pm

Having problem with 1993 Formula Plus.
Starts OK but I need to hold throttle to keep it revved up or it stalls, then to restart I need to give one prime
Also it seems to misfire starving for gas or something
I has just wondering if anyone knows what the problem would be and if a guy with no mechanic experience like me would be able to fix it.
Any help would be appreciated
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1993 Formula Plus engine poblem

Postby indy8six » January 11th, 2004, 5:15 pm

Sounds like you pilot jets are plugged.
Ride hard or ride alone
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1993 Formula Plus engine poblem

Postby dave583 » January 12th, 2004, 6:53 am

Whens the last time you did a carb clean on this? you probably got clogged jets. If you dont know what your doing dont try. take it to the shop or have someone show you how. Carb clean should cost $90 at the dealer. If you monkey around you may blow it up.Partially clogged jets can cause a lean down and poof.
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1993 Formula Plus engine poblem

Postby Matt guy » January 12th, 2004, 8:47 am

well i have a 91 formula plus and it had that same problem that is untill i put a new cankcase seal into it. but yes it could be ur pilot jets being clogged. i rebuilt the bottom end myself so i dont know how much that would cost @ the shop, sorry
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1993 Formula Plus engine poblem

Postby Octane » January 12th, 2004, 3:28 pm

okay i dunno what happened to my first post but i will start this again.

Cleaning your carbs is easy on this sled. I do it every year and it's not that scarey. I figured it out myself and my sled has never blown up. save yourself the money and follow these steps if you wanna save some money. If you screw up somehow or decide you don't want to do it yourself you can always bring this to you dealer or local shop. The beauty of working on your and my sled is that like most you have two carbs so you can always check the other incase you aren't sure about something.

First step : Remove your sliders from the carbs (dunno official name)
Unscrew the tops of your carbs and gentily pull out the sliders. PLace them in a dry clean cloth so that they aren't damaged. I suggest taping the cloth around the sliders. I usaullay place them on the oil resovoir for the duration of the procedure.

Second step :remove the air silencer. This step tends to piss me off because it tends to be awkward and you need to pull it out in a wierd angle. Before you start tugging at it you need to remove the clamps at the back of the carbs. They are the screw type clamps where as you turn the screw it either tightens the clamps or loosens them. The clamps stay with the silencer. After you have loosened both clamps pull the silencer out of the sled. It may be wise to observe at what angle/twist you pulled it out.

third step: Removing the carb from your sled. This is really easy. First remove the fuel inlit hose which should come across from right to left over the carb. It will be the biggest hose attached to you carb. There is a clamp on the left side of your carb that holds the hose onto the carb. Remove this hose and expect a little leakage fromt the hose( you may need to tug on the hose to get it loose). Second remove the primer hose. This hose attaches to the upper left front side of the carb just behind where the carb goes into the rubber groument attached to the engine block that the front of the carb is clamped into.
Finally loosen the clamp that attaches the groument on the carb. Finally remove the carb. Like I said before it is best to leave the other carb in the sled so that a) you remember which carbs goes on what side of the sled (incase it is jetted differently) b) it stays out of the way and you can you can use it as a reference point to look at where all the hoses go.

fourth step: with the carb sitting right side up, remove the the nut at the bottom of the float bowl and expect a fair amount of gas to come out. once you have drained the bowl place the nut where you will find it easily. turn the carb upside down and remove the four screws holding the bowl on. Remove the bowl. You may need to pry at the bowl to get it to come lose. pry from all four different sides and don't apply too much pressure as you don't want to damage the metal. Once you have gotten the bowl loose look in side for a greenish colored film or goo. If there is alot then you most likely found your problem. use carb cleaner and a tooth brush to scrub the film/goo out of there.. it needs to be clean. If the nut you took out of the bottom of the bowl is green and has goo you need to clean that too!!Set that all aside. Look back at the carb. The bottom of the carb is the jet. You need to make sure this is clean. Use a wrench to take it off. Look threw the hole in that piece and if it is not perfectly round or you see gunk or dirt in it you need to get this clean. I find it easiest to soak it in automotive carb cleaner and then use some sort of high pressure air to blow it out. Canned air will surfice as long as you get all the gunk out. Now look up the middle of the carb. If it isn't smooth you need to clean this too. I would suggest you take this out and clean it but if you want to keep this simple you can leave it in the carb and make sure you get all the gunk out. I used the red plastic straw that comes with wd-40 to gently s****e the gunk out. You should take out the float needle and see if it is dirty but I have never found it to be dirty. If once you put the carbs back together and you have the same problems i would take it to get done. I don't want you to loose parts in this stage. IN 6 years of not draing the carb in the spring and letting the gas sit in there is has never been dirty while the jet and bowl have been covered. So now you want to put the main get back on. Screw it back on and tighten it with the wrench. Put the bowl back on and tighten the srews in a criss cross manner(tighten upper left screw then bottom right screw etc). With the carb sitting right side up look inside the carb from the front and back and check for dirt in the small holes. it ther are spray some carb cleaner and try to blow it out with compressed air.. this is easily done.

To place the carb back in the sled first push the carb into the rubber groument and make sure it is firmly in ALL THE WAY AROUND THE CARB. if you fail this simple step you will blow you engine because it will suck air and lean out the engine. IT's not hard to get it right. it just takes care to make sure the carb is snug up against the groument. tighten the clamp and check again to make sure no air is going to leak past it. Reattach the hoses and check the other carb if you are unsure.

Follow the same steps to do the other carb once you have all the hoses back on the first carb. Once you place the silencer back in the sled you need to make sure you get the rubber on the silencer all around the the carb so that air doesn't leak through it. This is done easily by loosening the clamps alot and feeling underneath and all around the sides of the carb to ensure a good seal.It may take a bit of work to get the silencer to fit properlly but once you have the rubber fitting overtop of both carbs at the back it will push on easily. Tighten the clamps and then place the sliders back into the carbs. there are slots on the slider and there are guides on the inside of the carb to only allow the sliders to go in one way. Take it easy when you are placing the slider in and don't force it. It will drop in easily if you have the grooves and guides lined up properlly. You don't want to damage the needle. make sure the slider moves all the way to the bottom of the carb. Tighten the top of the slider thing back on the carb.

You are done. PRime the sled and try to start it. If you are at all unsure of this go to the local libary and take out a book on snowmobiles. ALot of the sleds in those books use similar carbs and you will be able to figure out the carbs from their pictures.

if you don't wanna spend the 2 hours max it takes(allowing for your first experience) spend the 90 bucks.


Hope this helps. I would atleast attempt to do this look at the carbs. It's really just a matter of confidence once you get in there. Since you are not adjusting screws or changing the needle position you are not going to blow anything up.


-Octane '99 Mx Z 600 (Just bought on Jan 9th such a fun sled)
'93 Formula Plus E (soooooo heavy) THis sled has 7000 kms on it and is still pulling the skis way off the snow.
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1993 Formula Plus engine poblem

Postby dave583 » January 13th, 2004, 2:24 am

Hey Octane how about some pictures with that step by step.
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1993 Formula Plus engine poblem

Postby dave583 » January 13th, 2004, 2:27 am

I had a 92 formula plus. Mine pulled the skis up pretty good too. Till one day some dufis got on it thinking he could ride. he pinned the throttle, pulled the skis off the ground and rode full throttle straight into a tree. that was the end of that sled. it still makes me upset today.
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1993 Formula Plus engine poblem

Postby Andy027 » January 13th, 2004, 7:51 am

Thanks for the detailed instruction I went ahead and took the carbs out. they were clean but one was dry no gas in the bowl it seem to be the pilot jet I think. Anyway got it to move up and down put it back together two primes two or three pulls and it started thanks for all the help really appreciated.
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1993 Formula Plus engine poblem

Postby Octane » January 14th, 2004, 5:12 pm

I would post you the pictures but I don't feel like going outside and riping off the carbs cause it's way too cold right now..That and it's a pain in the ass to get the air silencer off.

I think i got a shop manual for '87 sleds which i can scan and send you if you want.

-Octane
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