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Electrical question

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Electrical question

Postby vwbuggyman » December 23rd, 2004, 8:57 am

I should have been more specific. I meant magneto-equipped engines, with no battery. Since all my experience is with a 71 VW beetle engine, which runs on DC current, I was not expecting any engine to run on AC

Anyway, now that I set my voltmeter to the proper AC setting, there is a good 12 volts at the switch, the resistor, and even going into the grips.

2 black wires are connected to the grips. One is connected to a good ground. The other splits into 2 grey ones, one going to the resistor and one going to the switch. When I probe the 2 black wires w/motor at idle, it shows about 9-10 volts, as soon as the RPM's pick up, it jumps to 12. So the grips are getting power, and still won't heat up.

What now?
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Electrical question

Postby jpiler » December 23rd, 2004, 9:37 am

Are you giving them time to heat up ? Continuity test the leads in and out of the grips to see if the circuit is broken.The switch has high ,low and off settings.It only uses the resistor on the low setting.
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Electrical question

Postby sledwrench » December 23rd, 2004, 3:50 pm

Power at the ground usually means an open ground. Not sure which wire you're checking, but at least you have voltage. Hopefully you have enough current. I agree that the grips do take a bit of time to warm up. I would do all the testing on HIGH, in case the resistor is open. Having voltage is good, but it has to get used somewhere. If you have 12 in and 12 out, the grip is probably junk (shorted), resistence check of each would be a start.
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Electrical question

Postby vwbuggyman » December 24th, 2004, 8:07 am

How long should they take to heat up?
My friend's sled(ski-doo, but w/battery) has grips that heat up in about 1-2 minutes. I drove mine for 5 with no heat whatsoever.

So I should set the tester to ohms, and probe between the two wires? How many ohms of resistance should there be, if any?

I also emailed HotGrips, and much to my surprise they responded. They said that burnt out grips are impossible(or at lease theirs) and the only thing to check would be the wire connecting the two grips inside the handlebar.

How can you remove the grips to check this? I saw no screws or fasteners of any type on the grips, and they don't twist.
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Electrical question

Postby vwbuggyman » December 24th, 2004, 8:36 am

Do pull-start sleds have a fuse anywhere? Since these grips were supposedly replacing factory-installed ones, there should be a fuse for the circuit right before the power in to the switch. The schematic from hotgrips shows this. However, the manual for the sled mentions nothing about any fuses anywhere. No fuse is visible under the dash, nor anywhere else. Anyplace that I might be missing?
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Electrical question

Postby ebulman » December 24th, 2004, 9:30 am

QUOTE:
"If you have 12 in and 12 out, the grip is probably junk (shorted), resistence check of each would be a start."

12V in and 12V (Ground as Reference) out would mean no return path to ground (chassis).
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Electrical question

Postby sledwrench » December 26th, 2004, 1:47 pm

ebulman, thats what I said. Power at the ground usually means an open ground. BUT, if you are checking current along a wire, it will read the same voltage along the wire. Just as if a load were shorted, there would be no difference than a straight piece of wire. Keep checking along the path until you do not get a reading. Once you hit the ground ( a good one) voltage should read zero.

Is the resistor getting hot if left in the low position? Is it possible that the wires from the grips are chaffed on the bars, and finding grounds before going through the grips?

I would have to say you've done all you can to save those old grips. If you have good power in, and obviously a good ground. Then the grips just don't work. Cut them off with a razor knife, and install new ones.
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Electrical question

Postby mnsnowboy » December 26th, 2004, 2:54 pm

Sounds like you guys are on the right track. I just wanted to comment on the warm up time too- I had mine just idling this weekend (Ski-Doo) and it took waaaaaaaaaaaaay less than 5 minutes to get hot.

-sb
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Electrical question

Postby craze1cars » December 27th, 2004, 7:25 am

I've found that my OEM Doo grips of the mid 90's that are inserted inside the bars (not just heated grips), they take forever to heat up because they have to heat the handlebars and everything. And if it's real cold outside and you're just idling, they may NEVER heat up. Those things need at least 5 minutes at 5,000+ rpms to push enough juice before you actually start to feel the warmth.

But I belive at one time buggyman stated these are aftermarket heated grips...they usually heat pretty quick if they're working right. And I'll agree with another recent post here....these are $30 kits...if I were in your shoes, I'd quit beating myself over the head and buy and install a brand new set with new grips, switch, wires, and resistors. That'll fix ya up.
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Electrical question

Postby vwbuggyman » December 30th, 2004, 6:50 am

Well, I decided that I have had enough of this hassle and just bought new ones(even though the customer service rep insists that HotGrips can never burn out, ever, and it must be a wiring problem). I found out that the grips have to be cut off, and then each heating wire needs to be cut, then the excess epoxy has to be sanded off. Sounds like loads of fun.

Anything to speed up the removal? Any recommended tools?
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